Sometimes amazing things clash in the notebook.
I was writing something about sourdough loaves, how basically, when you get a fresh one (obvs fairly regular for me) you slice it while it’s fresh and freeze it. It makes loads of sense.
I’ve just got this insane Wusthof knife that makes it possible to slice really fresh bread, really thinly, thus making the whole freezing thing much more effective. A slice is easy to peel off, it defrosts in minutes and is completely unharmed by freezing. It toasts brilliantly, straight from the freezer.
But, also... I don’t usually freeze the ‘Toppers’. The end pieces that aren’t that useful to keep and take up valuable freezer space.
(’Topper’ is a Bristol thing. When we were kids, we used to fight over the crust ends of the bread... well to be honest, we’d fight over anything.) So I’d made a note to think up something. It just said ‘Toppers’.
Then I’d made a note about the deep fried crab thermidor at Lilibet. An absolutely life changing starter where crab meat (much better than lobster) is bound with a traditional Thermidor sauce, packed back into a clean crab shell and then the whole bloody thing is deep fried.
I mean... if that isn’t one of the great ideas of all time, I don’t know what is.
But then I thought about Toppers, and Toast Toppers - which I think used to be made by Heinz. A kind of paste for smearing on toast) and it all sort of clicked into place. How about a Bread ‘Topper’ ‘shell’, packed with a posh lobster Thermidor ‘Toast Topper’ and deep fried.
I mean... c’mon.
So. Cut the toppers off your fresh @fitzbillies sourdough with your @Wusthof Bread Light Sabre. Pull out the crumb and let it stale somewhere quietly for breadcrumbs
You can use frozen lobster tails or the cheap precooked lobsters from the freezer section at the supermarket. The latter you should just strip, the former should be simmered for 3 mins and then stripped. Either way, save the shells and other crustacean wreckage.
Break up the wreckage as much as possible and put it in a baking dish with chopped carrot, onion, celery. Toss with a big dollop of tomato puree, a glug of olive oil and put it in a hot oven until it starts to really scorch and smell lovely. Then scrape everything into and deglaze the baking tray with hot water.
Pour brandy over the burnt wreckage and cook it off; then a can of Italian supermarket white and cook that off. Then add the deglazings from the baking tray and top up with water to barely cover the mess. At this point it’ll look like a fight scene in Aliens II. Mijote for 20 mins and strain off.
This is your stock.
For the sauce, clarify some chopped shallots 2tbs off butter, then add 2tbs of plain flour and a big dredge of paprika. Cook this roux till it smells biscuity then whisk in brandy and around a mugful of the lobster stock (the rest is enough for a small but delicious bisque). Whisk to keep it smooth and liquid. Remove from the heat
Now whisk in a big handful of grated gruyere. A pinch of freeze dried tarragon, black pepper and salt, then a tablespoon of dijon mustard and a huge glug of double cream. Bring the whole lot together, whisking to keep smooth, then scrape into a bowl, cover and refrigerate.
Chop your cooked, cooled lobster meat into small pieces and fold into the sauce. Pack this ‘Thermidor mix’ into the ‘Topper’ shells and refrigerate again.
To cook, heat neutral oil to 175ºc in a pan. Dip the top of the chilled, packed Topper into egg wash and then a mix of breadcrumbs, gruyere and parmesan…
….then slide gently, into the oil, cheesy top side down. Check after 3 mins and roll gently onto it’s back once it’s brown.
Do the other side for roughly the same time then lift out, drain and transfer to a 180ºc oven. Probe occasionally until the core reaches 75ºc then rest and serve.
Looking back at my notes, I realise I’ve also been writing about Jonathan Woolway and his amazing Welsh Rarebit Croquette at St John Marylebone and my first croquetta at the original Barrafina.
I can’t tell you how good this tastes... but it also wants me to fill it with everything... all the best bits of croquettas, pie filling, Toast Toppers, chicken Kiev, Steak Bakes, rarebits and ... Oh sweet Jesus...ARNOLD BENNET!
I’ve just made a note to myself to pick up puff pastry from the bakery tomorrow... I have spare Thermidor filling and fresh prawns. I feel the Call of the Vol-au-vent.
There will be a small prize for the first person who mentions ‘Findus Crispy Pancake’ in the comments.
Of course, it’s just an absurdly posh Crispy Pancake!
...and your point is?